The Auto Starter kit comes with 17 degree dies. These are the most important as they are used for folding and the initial reduction. 25 degree dies are optional and can be used for final shaping, especially for the fat tire look.
For a fat tire look, you want a relatively small hole (for a wide band), stretch out past your target size more than normal, start reducing with a 17 degree die but then anneal again switch over to a 25 degree die to finish sizing and shaping.
I’ve boiled down the coin ring making process to four main steps:
  • punch a hole
  • fold it
  • stretch it
  • reduce it and finish
Lets see, here is what I would do for a fat tire size 13, silver Morgan dollar and half dollar:
“Fat Tire” Dollar:
  • punch a 9/16″ hole (wider band, used for larger rings and fat tire look. (I usually would punch a 5/8″ or 11/16″ hole for this size ring and the look I like. ))
  • bevel hole using deburring tool to remove stress risers
  • begin to fold with steel starter cone
  • anneal
  • finish folding until coin hits folding cone/mandrel
  • anneal
  • stretch out 4-5 sizes past target size of 13 to size 17-18.  (anneal as needed. I usually would stretcher 3-4 for a soft rounded look I like))
  • anneal
  • reduce reed side in 17 degree reduction die 1-2 sizes
  • remove excess material on inside reed side with deburring tool
  • finish reducing reed side in a 25 degree reduction die to target size
  • anneal
  • reduce cut side using 25 degree die to look symmetric only, not size. Sizing is already finished on the reed side.
  • If you need to reshape, simply stretch and reduce again.
  • “should not need need Swede for this coin and size unless wobbles form or you stretch too much and 17/25 degree dies start to remove detail on coin”
  • file, sand, buff, patina and finish
  • Crack open a cold one and enjoy 😉
“Fat Tire” Half dollar:
  • Size 13 is close to maximum size for this coin. I wouldn’t go over 14.
  • punch a 7/16″ hole (wider band, used for larger rings and fat tire look. 13 is a pretty big target size, may need to even punch with a 3/8″? (I usually would punch a 1/2″  or 9/16″ hole for this size ring and the look I like))
  • bevel hole using deburring tool to remove stress risers
  • begin to fold with steel starter cone
  • anneal
  • finish folding until coin hits folding cone/mandrel
  • anneal
  • stretch out 3-4 sizes past target size of 13 to a size of 16-17 (anneal as needed. I usually would stretcher 2-3 for a soft rounded look I like))
  • anneal
  • reduce in 17 degree die 1 size
  • remove excess material on inside reed side with deburring tool
  • finish reducing in a 25 degree die to target size “anneal as needed”
  • anneal
  • reduce cut side to look symmetric only, not size. Sizing is already finished on the reed side.
  • If you need to reshape, simply stretch and reduce again.
  • “should not need need Swede for this coin and size unless wobbles form or you stretch too much and 17/25 degree dies start to remove detail on coin”
  • file, sand, buff, patina and finish
  • Crack open a cold one and enjoy 😉
On a ring size 11 fat tire, I would go 1/16″ punch size larger on all that is stated above holes. Smaller holes for bigger rings, bigger holes for smaller rings. Make sure to practice on clad coins first. They work similar to silver coins but are much less expensive. I would do clad halves first then work your way up to clad dollars. Then start in on silver halves and then a silver dollar. Get comfortable with the process first before going up to silver, gold, platinum etc.

Here is a vid on the auto punch:

I’ll attach my manual as well.
Thanks
j